After disembarking in the bus lot, we made our way down to Segovia’s famous roman aqueduct, a historical and architectural marvel. Ángel explained that the aqueduct was built approximately 1900 years ago as a method of bringing water from the mountains down into the ancient Roman city that predates Segovia. The Romans didn’t use mortar or cement, relying solely on the pressure of fitting perfectly shaped stones together. The fact that it is still standing gets me every time. Below are some photos that illustrate the aqueduct’s construction, height, and magnitude.
I learned that by that point in history, the Romans did have the technology available to have created underground and low-level water transportation systems. However, creating something this incredible and beautiful served as political propaganda that the Romans were taking care of the people in its various territories.
Ángel explained that before the full extent of the history was known, there was a Spanish legend from the Middle Ages that tried to explain the aqueduct’s existence. Supposedly, there was a poor farming woman who had to walk up into the mountains and carry back buckets of water multiple times per day. One day, at the point of exhaustion, she said to herself something along the lines of “I would sell my soul if the water would just come to me instead.” Suddenly, a very well-dressed man (presumably the devil) appeared out of the shadows and offered to build her a structure that very night that would carry the water to her, in exchange for her soul. She agreed, and he worked all night, but by the time the sun came up, the last stone wasn’t fully in place. Thus, the woman got to keep her soul, and no longer had to make trips to the mountains for water. Obviously, this story comes from a time period after Christianity had spread through the land. You can see here that a statue of la Virgen de la Fuencisla (the patron Virgin Mary of Segovia) rests in the niche left by the Romans near the top of the aqueduct. In Roman times, the niche likely held a statue of Hercules.
After leaving the aqueduct, we made our way to la Casa de los Picos, which was built in the 15th century for an aristocratic government official named Juan de la Hoz. The castle-like structure is known for the unusual multi-faceted points that cover its façade. Apparently, this design was selected so that at various times of the day, the sun would hit the points and cause them to shine, thus making the house very noticeable to all who passed by. It was a way for the ostentatiously wealthy to make their importance known to all who passed by.
We continued through the town, stopping along the way to marvel at the unique design of each of the individual buildings, until we made it to the Plaza Mayor. Segovia’s Plaza Mayor is not enclosed like the ones in Salamanca, Madrid, and Barcelona; the idea of enclosing them came later in history and wasn’t done in all of the towns across the country. This Plaza Mayor is also home to Segovia’s cathedral, known as La Dama de las Catedrales (the lady of the cathedrals) for its delicate, almost feminine design. We had the chance to go inside the cathedral, where Ángel talked about the typical structure of those in Spain. He explained that if you looked at all cathedrals from above, you would see that they were shaped like a cross, with the front facing east to be closest to the sun. The chorus, often found in the center of the cathedral, was typically added later, after it was determined that music should be part of mass. The general population typically didn’t actually see the priest or bishop who was performing the mass, which is where the still-used expression oír misa (to hear mass, as opposed to seeing it or attending it), comes from. In addition, the Cathedral was seen as a very social place, similar to the Plaza Mayor, were people would gather and walk, so there was ample space for people to pass through as they walked around the central activity of the cathedral without causing interruptions. The luxurious chapels that line the walls were private burial and prayer spots for the wealthy families that provided donations for the construction of the cathedral. The closer the chapels are to the front of the church and the location of mass, the more money was paid, as it was believed that one’s remains would rest closer to God that way. I have visited many cathedrals during my four visits to Spain, and of course I’ve noticed the similarities among them, but this was the first time that anyone has ever succinctly explained to me the specific features that they all have in common.
Our final tour visit in Segovia was to the Álcazar. The word Álcazar comes from Arabic, and is used to describe a place with the defensive protection of a castle, but the design of a palace. This particular one is unlike the other castles, palaces, and alcázares throughout Spain, because after several hundred years of use, King Felipe II had the spires added and the roof pitch made more dramatic to better reflect the structures he had seen while traveling through Central and Northern Europe. In spite of its uniqueness in Spain, it still might look familiar. That is because Walt Disney used it as his inspiration for designing both Cinderella’s and Sleeping Beauty’s castles, thus solidifying in American minds the image of what a palace or castle should look like, and setting them up for disappointment should they visit any such place except for the Alcázar de Segovia.
Once inside the Alcázar, we learned about how this was the location of the coronation of Isabel I of Castilla (Commonly referred to as Isabella by Americans, and known among us as the queen who financed Columbus’s trip to the New World, although she and her husband Fernando’s reign was marked by many momentous events that would change the course of Spanish history). It was also one of the sites that Isabel and Fernando, typically called Los Reyes Católicos, called home during their time as king and queen. During that time period, there was not a central home base for the king and queen, but rather a series of palaces and castles around the country, so their rule was a nomadic one. This particular location houses typical finds in such a place, including a dining hall, a throne room, a place to hear mass, as well as the typical artwork, tapestries, and armor that one would expect to find in a castle or palace. It is truly a beautiful, picturesque place worthy of a visit.
Upon the conclusion of our visit to the Alcázar, we were given about an hour and a half of free time to find lunch, shop, or do what we pleased in Segovia. After grabbing a bite to eat, my friends and I were lucky enough to spot a bridal party leaving the cathedral. Several dancers in traditional clothing had been hired to perform around the bride and groom, and everyone was celebrating.
Once I selected my souvenir from Segovia – a small 5x7 print of a landscape painting containing the three major landmarks that we visited, for 3 euro – we headed back to the aqueduct to meet up with all of the other people on our tour so that we could proceed to the bus together. Unfortunately, one student from a different class never made it. We waited for a while, but in Spain there are laws about how long busses and bus drivers can be in service, so eventually we had no choice but to leave. Fortunately, there is a public bus route that runs directly from Segovia to Salamanca, so I trust that the student eventually made it back home. Note to self: the slight tardiness that is a part of Spanish culture should not be applied to group tours.
As for us, our next stop was El Palacio de la Granja, an 18th century palace about a half hour from Segovia. I was excited for this visit, because I had never been here before. Ángel explained that when the last Austrian king of Spain, Carlos II, died without heirs, a new bourbon dynasty of French royalty accepted the throne. The first of which was Felipe V, who had been raised in Versailles, the palace that his grandfather, Louis the XIV (the Sun King), was famous for building. Felipe V had been perfectly happy in France, and was not thrilled about the prospect of ruling Spain at first. Therefore, when he had the opportunity to build a vacation palace for him and his family, he chose to do so in the French Baroque style. Everything about El Palacio de La Granja is luxurious, from the magnificent Italian chandeliers in every room – each one different than the one before – to the giant paintings, to the gold-guilded walls. Felipe V also made the unconventional decision to construct his home in the reverse direction from what is typical, so that the service rooms and less impressive (although still beautiful) entrance faced the street, while the grand façade faced the ornate gardens.
We were not permitted to take photographs inside of the palace, so here is a postcard that depicts the King and Queen’s bedroom. Pretty luxurious, right?
With travel time included, we were gone a total of 12 hours yesterday. I was also told that at one point the temperature got up to 100 degrees. Needless to say, today has been a bit more relaxing. Most of us slept in and didn’t see each other until lunch time. I just returned from a trip to Corte Inglés, which is open on a rare Sunday only because of summer sales (normally, all stores aside from occasional ones that cater specifically to tourists are closed on Sunday), so that I could pick up some fliers and catalogues to share with my students. My only plan for the rest of the day is dinner in a couple of hours, followed by a trip to Plaza Mayor for ice cream with my classmates (FYI: I eat ice cream every day when I am in Spain. Every. Single. Day.).
I’m so glad that I have the opportunity to rest and recuperate a bit, because between classes, three city tours, a movie seminar, a play that doesn’t start until after 10pm at night, and another day-long weekend excursion, this coming week is going to be even busier than the last one. I am certainly not complaining though, because I am truly in my element thanks to this experience, and I know just how very lucky I am.
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